The small town of Glashütte is undoubtedly the cradle of German watchmaking, having given its name to several well-known brands since the mid-19th century. Among them, NOMOS Glashütte is experiencing increasing success today, with its minimalist collections inspired by Bauhaus.
Tetra, Metro, Autobahn… several models stand out, but the real icon of the brand is the Tangente, a watch that seems simple at first glance, but has everything to please.
NOMOS, the “little brand” that keeps rising (again and again!)
If she likes to highlight “175 years of watchmaking in Glashütte”, the story of NOMOS, on the other hand, is much more recent. The brand officially came into existence in 1990, right at the time of German reunification. It was at this time that Roland Schwertner, who started his career as a computer scientist and photographer, decided to go into watchmaking and registered the name of NOMOS Glashütte/SA. In this town in Saxony, the newcomer rubs shoulders with historical figures like A. Lange & Söhne (which belongs to the Richemont group), Glashütte Original and Union Glasshütte (the two entities of the Swatch Group) or even Mühle Glashütte.
NOMOS therefore embodies the purest German watchmaking tradition, with watches made (largely) by hand with a typical Bauhaus design. In other words, the design is streamlined, simple, and geometric, and the functionality of the watch is highlighted. Moreover, the brand’s representatives summarize its positioning best: “The concept of luxury is redefined. Instead of always trying to be more elitist, it’s about reducing something to the essential, aiming for perfection in minimalism.”
Today considered the most famous watch made in Germany, the Tangente perfectly embodies this desire: it certainly doesn’t have much to stand out from the crowd, and yet, it manages to captivate the eye…
La Tangente, a classic that gets better with age
With 13 families of models and about a hundred variants, NOMOS Glashütte offers a very varied collection. On its own, the Tangente comes in no less than 54 versions (including a very colorful limited series unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2024!). From 33 to 42 mm, with or without a date, a leather or steel bracelet, there really is something for every taste. But oddly enough (or not), it is in its simplest version that this Tangente appeals to us the most.
This Reference 130 features a steel case with a diameter of 38 mm, perfectly round and very thin (no more than 6.8 mm thick). Topped with a flat sapphire glass “almost indestructible” quotes NOMOS, the watch displays a very sleek profile. However, its angular lugs allow it to assert its character, not solely reserving it for the slimmest wrists.
As always, the dial displays optimal readability: 5 digits inspired by the typography of the Bauhaus movement sit next to very thin stick indexes and a subtly integrated date window at 6 o’clock. Just above, the decentralized second fits in just as naturally, with a slightly textured sub-counter that provides a bit of relief. Only the 3 blued hands bring a touch of color to the whole, in a style that is reminiscent of the Max Bill by Junghans.
According to German law, the name Glashütte can only appear on a watch if “at least 50% of the added value to the caliber is generated on site”. The Tangente far exceeds this threshold with no less than 95%, notably thanks to the presence of the manual caliber DUW 4101 (for Deutsche Uhrenwerke or “German watch movements”). This one stands out for its rotating ring date mechanism and its escapement equipped with the NOMOS Swing System with its blue spiral spring. Above all, it reminds us that the German brand not only takes care of the design of its watches, but brilliantly perpetuates the watchmaking tradition of Glashütte.
The complete features of this watch
| Case | Stainless steel Dimensions: 37.5 mm in diameter, 6.8 mm thickness Flat sapphire glass Transparent sapphire glass back Waterproof to 3 ATM / 30m (splash resistant) |
|---|---|
| Dial | Galvanized dial, white silver plated Blued hands Small second and date window at 6 o’clock |
| Strap | Black Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan strap Lug width: 19 mm |
| Movement | DUW 4101 manual winding caliber Stop-second mechanism 23 jewels Power reserve: up to 42 hours |
| Reference | Ref.130 |
| Suggested retail price | 2320 euros |
In summary, our opinion on the Tangente 38 Date
It’s sometimes very complex to make things simple. This statement which is valid in all areas certainly applies to watchmaking, where some people always tend to want to do more to stand out from the crowd.
Since always, NOMOS has taken the opposite stance with its minimalist and refined watches. The Tangente 38 Date is the perfect example, combining a clear and functional design with hyper-precise mechanics. Without exuberance, but with an intensified attention to detail (as can be seen on the bracelet, for example), it helps to understand how this “young” brand has become a new benchmark for affordable luxury in Germany. And with its price of €2320, this timeless Tangente seems to be the ideal model for anyone wanting to stand out (and off the beaten path) without attracting attention!
